On our way back from Oz, we took a trip to Langkawi, a collection of islands about an hour's flight from KL. As with much of the region, it's hot and humid and of course gets the monsoon weather too.
Although you can just chill out where you're staying, you'll probably want to get a car for a few days to get around the island and at only RM50/day (about GBP8) it's really cheap! Get cash from the airport as you won't find an ATM elsewhere. The island is a bit weird in that there are houses dotted around the place, some derelict, some in progress, but then you'll turn the corner and they'll be a load of houses forming a kind of makeshift village.
Families get around on moped and it's common to see the toddler with a dummy in it's mouth practising on the controls.
We went to a street market that we found by chance after we got lost and it was one of those times when you stumble across a little gem. Nothing special as such, but it was a great chance to see how the locals live. Two unexpected things happened (or didn't happen): we didn't get hassled even though we were the only Westerners around, and we tucked into beef satay sticks and fried rice with no dodgy after effects (and at RM5 or GBP0.80 dinner for two was cheap as the proverbial chips!). Apparently these markets are held at various places so check when they're on to get some local action.
We stayed in Pantai Tenagh, about 10 minutes drive from the airport at the Frangipani Resort. Ok, this was our little bit of luxury after backpacking in Cairns, Brisbane and the Gold Coast. But at USD60/night for two with a huge breakfast on the beach and meals and drinks for a few quid it was pretty cheap and highly recommended.
There are many trips to see more of the island and are well worth it. Save some money by arranging the trips with traders on the beach rather than hotels or agents. We did some island hopping for RM35 each which involved a trip to the Island of the Pregnant Maiden. After running the gauntlet of monkeys at the dock (they like to grab bags!) we made our way to a freshwater lake where you can swim or take a boat out. There are also catfish which are more than eager to nibble at your feet on the shoreline.
By far the best thing we did was taking a dive trip with East Marine (based in Kuah, but available through agents) to Pulau Payar Marine Park, an hour's boat trip where you'll get 2 dives with a guide (or snorkelling instead) and lunch for around RM250. Our guide Ali took us round a couple of the sites where you'll see loads of colourful fish (parrot fish, groupers, moorish idols, clown fish...) and the odd reef shark and turtle. We thought this was amazing, but even more amazing was when we went to shore for lunch to see sharks swimming right up to the beach among everyone wading in. Of course they are harmless but is was a bit freaky anyway! This is a must for divers! If you have an underwater camera like me, keep an eye on your air supply as it tends to run out quicker and you way need to share air til you surface!
There are plenty of sites to visit including the cable car which takes you to the highest point on the island. Seven Wells is a waterfall with seven natural pools, but it is quite a hike to the top and not really worth the climb in the heat. The shorter walk from the carpark is better and there's a little plungepool at the base of the waterfall which I fell in - quite refreshing! Otherwise, unless it's been raining the waterfalls on the island aren't that great.
Nightlife near where we stayed included the Reggae Bar, a Bob Marley-adorned bar right on the beach to chill out and meet up with locals and other travellers. There's the token Irish pub called Debbie's place, which is actually quite good, run by a charming one-armed lady - no, she's not Irish. The bar staff have the Irish glint in their eye though and are up for a laugh. Carey's Bar was untested, although gets a mention as my namesake and the funky music we could hear as we went past.
In short, get your arse here if you're travelling around this way!
Relaxing in Langkawi
Apr 2 2006, 07:55 AM
